Philip Weigall journeys up Victoria’s longest trout stream.

It’s a funny thing, but the question ‘Where’s your favourite fishing spot?’ has been put to me far more often by non-fishers than dedicated anglers. For the former group – radio presenters, publishers, non-fishing friends and acquaintances – I suppose it seems like a logical, even polite conversation starter. However experienced flyfishers appreciate what an impossible question that is. Not because of secrets; it’s just very hard to narrow ‘favourite’ down to a single destination. Do you mean where I’d most like to go tomorrow? In that case the river or lake will probably be somewhere I haven’t visited for a while. Do you mean the place of fondest memories? That may be somewhere that no longer exists, because the people who were part of the memory are gone now. What about the spot where the living is easiest, or the adventure the greatest? Where the fish are big or where they are numerous? Where the catching is simple or a challenge? Where it’s pretty or where it’s productive?
For all that, if you’re threatening to drop my best fly rod off the north face of Mt Buffalo if I don’t give a straight answer, then I will say that my favourite trout river, in Victoria at least, is the Mitta Mitta.
The Mitta (as it’s commonly known) and I met in the mid-1970s. After a harrowing drive over Mt Hotham in a night-time blizzard, with only the snow pole reflectors to distinguish between the road and the abyss beyond, Dad’s trusty Falcon 500 finally delivered us to the campsite at Glen Valley. Fortunately our friends had arrived earlier and they already had a fire blazing to ward off the May chill. The next morning, youthful enthusiasm negated the frost and after much persistence I hooked – and memorably lost – one of the best trout I’d encountered in my young life. Instead of putting me off, that loss only made the Mitta more compelling and I’ve been coming back ever since.
The Big Loop
As Trevor’s map shows, the Mitta’s course is one of most convoluted in the country. Well over 200 km long, in its infancy as the Big River it flows north-west beneath the Mt Bogong massif, before abruptly hooking south-east – a course it maintains for around 50 kilometres. Then the river curves back around to the north and eventually the north-west. I don’t claim to much understand the geological reasons for this unusual path – apparently it’s something to do with the ancient ‘capture’ of the south-flowing Tambo River’s headwaters. But what I do know is that this twisting course delivers at least double the kilometres of flyfishing water of any comparable Victorian trout stream. Only in its final miles does the Mitta cease to be genuine trout water, and even then trout are still caught from time to time all the way to its terminus at Lake Hume.
Here, I plan to take a journey up the Mitta from where the better trout water starts around Tallandoon north of Lake Hume, all the way to the headwaters beneath Mt Bogong.
The Dartmouth Effect
No discussion about Mitta trout fishing can even begin without reference to the massive Dartmouth Dam, roughly midway along the Mitta’s course. This extraordinary structure impounds nearly 4 million megalitres of water when full, making it comfortably the largest storage in Victoria.
Prior to the construction of Dartmouth – and its subsequent filling which took place over several years in the 1980s – all of the Mitta below the present dam site was at best average trout water. By that point on its journey, the river had flowed too far from its high altitude beginnings to retain cool water during the height of summer.
However, once Dartmouth commenced operation, the off-take of cool subsurface lake water into the river artificially chilled it, and the new tailwater quickly became prime trout water. In the decades since, the off-take system has been re-engineered to recreate something like a natural water temperature regime in the Mitta below the dam. However there still seems to be some benefit to the trout fishery thanks to a ‘smoothing’ of any extreme temperature spikes.
Predicting flow and temperature regimes in the Mitta below Dartmouth has become nearly impossible in recent years as all manner of objectives compete for the lake’s water. I will say that as the lake again hovers around full after a decade of drought, it seems likely that water releases and even spills will run more high quality water down the river than usual over the coming months. Historically, sustained high flows have always benefitted the trout and the invertebrates like mayfly that make up an important part of their diet. Put simply, the trout grow bigger and the hatches are better. However the actual fishing can be quite challenging during high water, so knowing what conditions to hope for on the Mitta tailwater isn’t straightforward – more about this shortly.
As for the Mitta above the lake, the changes wrought by Dartmouth have been less profound. Even so, it seems likely that rainbow trout numbers in the upper Mitta and tributaries have been favoured by the creation of this stillwater refuge and block to downstream migration. It’s also possible that the numbers of large brown trout in the upper river early and late in the season have been boosted by spawning migrations of lake fish. However the Mitta has always held good numbers of quality fish, so I expect this factor would only be relevant during boom seasons on the lake when it re-floods long-exposed ground, creating a nutrient boost.
Up the Mitta
Tallandoon to Snowy Creek
From Snowy Creek junction to Tallandoon, the Mitta winds invitingly across rich farm flats hemmed by steep, forested hills. The river is broad and attractive, with a mixture of gravelly riffles, swift glides and long, slow pools broken by the occasional rapid. The bed is clean gravel and rubble except in the slower sections. Clarity is usually reasonable, although the Snowy quickly puts dirty water into the river after heavy rain. Access is very good above and below three major bridges, via roadside accesses, and laneways like Bowlers Lane. There is also public access to extensive stretches of river immediately below Mitta Mitta township, particularly from the northern side.
While the Mitta here is primarily a tailwater, during the lengthy periods when the minimum environmental flow of 200 mg/day is being released from Dartmouth, Snowy Creek (it’s bigger than many rivers) often contributes more water to the Mitta than the dam’s base flow. At these times, the river in some ways becomes a larger extension of the Snowy with water clarity, temperature and fluctuations mainly governed by what happens to the entirely natural flow of this pretty stream (itself a fine trout water.)
The size and numbers of trout in this section are primarily dictated by flows over the preceding year or so. Regular high flows – especially if generated by dam releases – create better trout habitat and some really big trout of 2 kg or more grow or migrate into the river. I don’t enjoy actually fishing these high flows (2000 mg/day plus) but there is no doubt they help the trout. If low flows have been the norm for a while, the average size of the trout declines and at times half pounders can dominate, although there are always some 1 kg plus fish present.
BEST FISHING
The perfect setup for this section of river is to strike lower flows (but not too low) of 500 – 2000 megalitres/day (see Fact Box) after prolonged high flows. Although these circumstances are hard to predict, present high levels in Dartmouth Dam are resulting in the latter, backed by very good Snowy Creek flows for the last couple of years. So the trick is to pick when the low flows are going to kick in. You can sometimes get clues by looking at the Murray Darling Basin Authority link http://wwwmdba.gov.au/water/river_info and browsing the weekly report. My best guess is this will happen in autumn 2013 – perfect timing as my favourite fishing on this part of the Mitta is to sippers in the slower bubble-lines and glides (try a size 14 red spinner), and to Kossie dun feeders in the faster water. A size 10-12 parachute dun like Doddy’s pattern in Flyfisher 9 works very well on these fish, but a Parachute Adams will do. And if you happen to strike cool, moderate flows in summer, look for willow grub feeders.
Finally, this section has historically fished well early season with Dartmouth buffering the high, cold flows that beset many natural north-east streams at this time. Whether this occurs in spring 2013 will depend on the volume of water in Dartmouth – and/or demand for water downstream.

Snowy Creek to Callaghans Creek
The key feature of this section is the frequent lack of a sizeable base flow. Besides two small creeks – Banimboola and Callaghans – the Mitta’s volume here relies on whatever is released from Dartmouth. The minimum environmental flow of approximately 200 mg/d is less than ideal, so if sustained bigger water releases haven’t applied for a while, the river becomes somewhat stagnant. It doesn’t help that Callaghans Creek muddies easily after rain and if the Mitta is running low, Callaghans’ influence can be enough to quickly discolour the whole river below it until Snowy Creek dilutes the impact.
On the plus side, this section of river has very good pedestrian access walking upstream from Mitta Mitta township, and good access from several points off the Dartmouth Road. The river continues to wind across a gravel and rubble bed through flats somewhat narrower than those below Snowy Creek. However walking upriver is pretty easy and it’s reasonably straightforward to get around the odd large, flow-less and unappealing pool. Wide, shallow fords are fewer up here though, so crossing the river at flows above 1000 mg/day can be tricky.

BEST FISHING
Once again the quality of the fishing rapidly improves if high flows from Dartmouth have flushed the river, and it has then settled to a comfortable height, say 400-1000 mg/d. Look for willow grub feeders in summer, and mayfly and caddis action in late spring or autumn – although the better mayfly hatches are reliant on a decent period of worthwhile Dartmouth releases.

Callaghans Creek to Lake Banimboola
Above the creek junction conditions on the Mitta abruptly change. The river enters a steep, forested valley and much of bed becomes boulders and bedrock. Upriver access is slippery and arduous, and moving along the scrubby banks isn’t much better. There are few access points off the Dartmouth Road. At even moderate flows, the river can be daunting and quite dangerous to cross.
BEST FISHING
If conditions are reasonable further downstream, it is difficult to recommend this section. From the elevated edges you can sometimes polaroid the odd big fish in the pools, but many others are small and in average condition. Hatches seem limited. The best argument for this section is the clearer water you can find here when rain has discoloured the Mitta further down. Then, as well as polaroiding, searching the runs with a bead-head nymph and attractor dry will catch trout.

Lake Dartmouth to Hinnomunjie
The fishable length of the Mitta immediately above Dartmouth varies by many kilometres depending on the lake level. In recent times the lake has inundated the river until well above the Gibbo River junction. In any case, I rate the Omeo Valley section of the river, several kilometres upstream of the forested valleys and gorges, as the most appealing stretch. Here, the Mitta flows through a fairly broad, dry valley and features similarly broad pools, glides and runs. This part of the river is bounded by a mix of grassland and dry forest, and both public and private land – please ask permission before crossing private property. Overall, access is good from the bridge itself, and via various tracks leading off Kellys Rd (an extension of the Omeo Valley Road).

BEST FISHING
During high summer, water temperatures can become quite elevated along this section of river, but if you get some cool water (check the Hinnomunjie gauge – see Fact File) there can be very good hopper fishing. Certainly from early autumn until the first decent rain or frost, hoppers should be high on your list. Otherwise, the best fishing is pre-Christmas and again in mid to late autumn, when there is consistently cool water and sometimes good hatches of mayfly and caddis. If nothing is rising, searching the water with an attractor dry with or without a trailing nymph is good fun. Many of the trout in this stretch are small-ish, say 10 to 12 inches, but there are enough better fish to keep things interesting; these are more commonly encountered earlier and later in the season.
Hinnomunjie to Bundarra River
A few kilometres above Hinnomunjie Bridge the Mitta enters a rugged gorge. There are numerous deep dark pools, violent rapids and giant boulders. Access is difficult with a steep track down to Black Duck Hole from the Omeo Highway the only straightforward (if arduous) route. Many kilometres of this part of the river are rarely fished which may appeal to the adventurous. However, my limited experience fishing the top and bottom sections suggests the Mitta here is no more productive than the more accessible stretches above and below.
BEST FISHING
As upstream progress can be hard work and even dangerous, I would leave this section of river until it is practical to wet wade. Conversely, the dry, rocky gorge can become stiflingly hot during the height of summer. So the best time to explore is likely to be early autumn – when the summer heat has passed, water levels are comfortable, yet before it gets too cold. Searching the pools with large weighted wets and the runs with attractor nymphs and dries has worked on the rare occasions I’ve fished this bit.

Bundarra River to Glen Valley
This fine stretch promises a lot and delivers plenty. For most of this part of the Mitta (strictly the Big River above the Bundarra junction), the Omeo Highway stays within a few hundred metres of the water so access is possible pretty well anywhere. Numerous rough and not so rough vehicular tracks lead down to the river, and there’s often the additional option of picking an open spur or slope and heading straight down. Above Big River Bridge the highway swings away from the river. For the first couple of kilometres upstream of the bridge the water is bounded on one side by paddocks, although the edges can be very scrubby and blackberry infested, limiting actual access in and out of the river in spots. There is also a walking track roughly paralleling the water on the west bank.
Throughout, this whole section of the Mitta/Big River is a delight to fish with literally miles of idyllic riffles, runs, glides and pools. While the odd big dark pool is uninspiring, and the odd bouldery stretch is hard work, there is no beat here where I wouldn’t happily spend a day. Meanwhile, trout size is good with numerous fish around the old-fashioned pound, and significant numbers twice that size. On a good day you may tangle with a three pounder and there’s the occasional monster to leave you weak at the knees.
Pre Dartmouth, rainbows were almost unheard of on the main river with just a few confined to the tributaries. These days you catch enough of them in this stretch to add variety and at times they can be found sipping hard in pods of several fish. Browns remain the most abundant species though.

BEST FISHING
Like some other large rivers, the upper Mitta/Big can take a bit of effort to crack and this can make it appear less productive than it really is. By all means fish a Royal Wulff or Stimulator with a beaded Hares Ear or PTN beneath – this often produces good fish. But if this standard technique fails, don’t give up. Deep nymphing – either short-line nymphing or indicator nymphing – can absolutely turn the day around. Similarly, a subtler single dry like a chubby Geehi Beetle without a palmered hackle, or a small Parachute Adams fished carefully around the edges and in the quiet seams, can both pull good fish when bolder patterns aren’t working.
I dislike fishing this part of the river too early or too late, when it’s likely to be cold, and/or very high. Prime time is usually late November to mid-April – the top of this stretch is nearly 800 metres above sea level so summer heat is rarely an issue. Speaking of which, keep an eye out for summer grasshoppers around the cleared flats or open woodland sections – a Wee Creek Hopper is deadly when they’re about. And stay on for the evening rise if you can; it’s usually a beauty.

Glen Valley to Wild Horse Creek
A few kilometres above Big River Bridge, the cleared flats are left behind and the river is embraced by a mixture of scrubby and open forest. The best access is via the 4WD-only Kangaroo Creek Track. This track turns off the Omeo Highway at Glen Valley, and periodically passes close enough to the river to provide convenient access. This is quite wild country and the track can become pretty rough and eroded, especially after extended wet periods.
Up here the trout are almost all browns and while the average size may just be the best on the whole river, numbers can be patchy. The trout appear to be inexplicably absent from some stretches, although there is little consistency from week to week or year to year.
BEST FISHING
This is definitely summer/early autumn water. Fords and upstream access are simply too hard when the water is high, while the valley quickly becomes frigid and lifeless by mid to late autumn. My favourite way to fish this stretch is with a big generalist dry like a Royal Wulff or Stimulator. Generally, it seems that if I’m going to catch any trout up here, that’s what will work – perhaps with a beaded Hares Ear fished a few feet behind. Unlike further downstream, dedicated nymphing or fishing subtler dry flies doesn’t seem to be the magic cure for tough fishing – unless of course a specific hatch or fall suggests otherwise.
As touched on earlier, the biggest issue with this stretch is how patchy the fishing can be. Typically, I’ll fish glorious-looking water without so much as spooking a fish, and then quite suddenly find good sport. Often the change doesn’t relate to any obvious improvement in water or weather conditions. Perhaps recent river conditions have something to do with it – in flood the steep gradient generates terrifying power and it may be that after floods the trout (and aquatic insects) abandon the areas of shifting substrate. Whatever the explanation, I’d advise simple perseverance as the best strategy – for the greatest chance of a good day up here, you need to set aside several hours and cover a fair bit of water. Many’s the stretch that’s been a dog to begin with, only to turn to gold after a few hours – and vice versa!
Beyond
Above Wild Horse Creek the river basically becomes a medium-sized backcountry stream, flowing through wilderness and only accessible on foot. The best recent account of the fishing on this lengthy section comes from my Mitta fishing mates, Dale McCabe and Max Caruso, who wrote the story of their backpack adventure to the upper river in the Flyfisher 7 story, ‘Shadows of Bogong’. After a 9 hour hike each way, Dale and Max found very good fishing, if not a New Zealand-esque backcountry experience. Still, I do hear whispers and half-forgotten stories of back to back 5 pounders and I guess anything is possible in the remote, precipitous gorges far from even a walking track.